CPH PATTERN AVAILABILITY

************* THIS JUST IN *************
Lisa Shroyer, editor of Knitscene magazine, has compiled a book entitled The Best of Knitscene, featuring a "reworking of Heather Lodinsky's "Central Park Hoodie" [Yarn Market News, January 2012], available from Interweave Press. The links below take you to the pages for the paper version and the eBook version.

Paper [144 pp, paperback, $24.95]

eBook [144 pp, PDF, $19.95]

The book includes 20 of the most popular knitting patterns from the first five years of Knitscene magazine, including Connie Chang Chinchio's Geodesic Cardigan and Katie Himmelberg's Phiaro Scarf. The offerings vary widely from mitts, hats, socks and scarves to vests and sweaters, in addition to providing tips and designer profiles.

**************** UPDATE ****************
PATTERN AVAILABLE NOW!!! :-)
The pattern for the CPH is now available
for purchase from Knitting Daily as a downloadable PDF! The pattern includes expanded sizing for PLUS sizes—52", 56", and 60"!

The Knitting Daily Blog has featured the CPH in some posts:
The CPH--PLUS!
The CPH--Which Size to Knit?
The Finished Plus Size CPH
The CPH Plus Size Gallery

If you receive the Knitting Daily email, you already know that the CPH is the NUMBER ONE best-selling pattern in the KD Online Store!


Friday, February 9, 2007

Status and Questions for the Group

Hi Everyone!

I love seeing everyone's progress - it makes me more and more excited and anxious to finish and to wear my new CPH. Here's my progress thus far.



I am using Donnegal Tweed Homespun– the yarn called for in the pattern. The color is a deep purple - #845 - and I love it – it’s perfectly rich and bold.

I just finished up the front right side and I’m on to the sleeves. I have a couple of questions that hopefully you can give some advice on.

First is sleeve length. I keep reading that many people feel that the sleeves are a bit too long. Are a lot of you finding this issue? I’m wondering if I should do 4” on the cuff ribbing instead of 5”.

Second- this is my second sweater ever and my first was knitted in the round. When you seam together at the end, it’s best to block, right? (edit: i realized this wasn't clear - i meant is it better block it BEFORE seaming or after)

One last thing - as I started my right front piece, I noticed that the pattern was wrong - the correction is on the Knitscene website. Here it is: Under Right Front on ribbing: Row 2 (WS) * p2, k2; rep from * to end of row

I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions on the hood – the part that is really scary right now :)

4 comments:

Shameka said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Shameka said...

Hi, I just wanted to give you a little bit of advice about blocking. It is VITAL to the look of your sweater. This is one important step that you should not skip, especially if you want your garment to fit well, and want to wear it for years to come. It will make the difference between you throwing it into a pile in the closet, or wearing it proudly and showing off your knitting skills. Take your time to block to the proper measurements that you are using for the pattern, and let the fabric dry thoroughly before you seam it. Your cables will stand out more, and your stitches will look more even, and outstanding. The progress you made is wonderful, your stitches are very neat, and the color is exquisite. I haven't gotten to the sleeves yet, but personally I like longer sleeves, just in case I need to pull them down to keep my hands warm. (My hands are always cold in the office, so I just might need the extra length). You can also fold them if you think they are too long. and sew the folded fabric onto itself. You are motivating me to get mine done. What a wonderful post. Keep it up!!!

Pam said...

I think the only way to know if the sleeves will be right for you is to measure. Ideally, measure the sleeves on a similar sweater, one that fits the way you like. It should be a fitted sweater with set-in sleeves, in this case.

Alternatively, you are interested in the measurement from your center back neck to your wrist -- measured across your shoulders and then down.

If you do the first, you can compare sleeve length with the size you are knitting. If you do the latter, you will have to include the width of half the back of the sweater, at the top of the shoulder, and the sleeve length.

Good luck!

tiennie said...

1. Definitely block - makes it look and wear so much better!
2. Sleeve length - I only did 4 inches to make it match the 4 inches on the body, sleeve were still long but I liked it that way and so did the 2 I did for my sisters. We could fold up the sleeve cuff if we like.
3. The ribbing errata for the front is on this KAL somewhere but you're right. There was an error.
4. Can't wait to see yours all finished!