Woohoo - finished!

Finished! Knat using Cascade 220 - tis lovely and cosy. I went for wider rib at the front, and I think if I made it again I would make the front panels wider so the rib could be only 3 inches total.

I'm putting loads more pics / details in my blog. Thanks for this KAL - I've not posted much but I've lurked everyday and all the tips and hints have really helped :0)

Elaine x

Challenged!

Just wanted to report that, while my CPH is moving right along, a friend has challenged me to a 3-way race with her! You can read all about it at her blog and at mine. I'm sure the third person will chime in soon too.
So--have any of the rest of you challenged yourselves, or another person, to a race to finish this?
More importantly, which of us are you rooting for!

2 Extra Stitches?

Hello KAL Buddies,

Quick question. I've started the sleeves (knitting both at the same time) and I just noticed that I had cast-on two extra stitches. I'm knitting up the size 44 and it requests cast-on 46 stitches, I did 48 and really didn't notice until now.



The only thing I think can be a problem is placement of the cable along the arm. Since now the cable repeat section isn't centered on the sleeve, it's off by two. The only way I see in fixing it, is possible only increasing on one side to make up for the difference on the other. AND does anyone foresee a huge MUST RE-KNIT problem ahead?

Thanks
Kris

Central Park Hoodie

hello all,

Just finish getting all my supplies to start of my hoodie.

Finished Central Park Hoodie!

For the love of Mike, I've tried everything and STILL can't get this picture to post properly... so bear with me.

But, yes, yes, the Central Park Hoodie is finally finished! It really is beautiful, but a tad small. I agree with most, that the pattern seems to run small. I knit the 40″, and my gauge was pretty much on, but it only blocks to about 38″, at the most. The sleeves and shoulders are also snug, but not at all unwearable - just not what I’m used to.

Pattern: Central Park Hoodie, IK Knitscene, Fall 2006Yarn: Cascade 220, The Heathers, Lapis (9336), 5-1/2 skeins. The true color is somewhere between these two, but closest to the second picture.Size: 40″

More on my blog if you're interested.

I'm done!

But my battery recharger has conked out so you'll have to wait for pictures.

I'll try my best to get them this weekend.

sizing question

hey all,

so i just got my yarn, this pretty purple/black highland wool from elann.com. i swatched up and got 18 stitches with size 8 needle and 20 with a size 7 (which is closer to the recommended gauge of the yarn). i don't think i'd want to go up to a 9 needle to get closer to the 17/4 gauge. after washing the swatch there doesn't seem to be any shrinkage.

i've been trying to figure out the math. i want a hoodie that will end up with a 40in circumference which would give me a nice couple of inches of ease. which size should i shoot for?

sorry my math is crap.
thanks for any help.

CPH Swatch, and Hello!

Hello all - My name is Katrina, I've been knitting for almost 2 yrs, and this is my first post!

Between work and a new apartment, and a million other things, I finally had time to make my swatch. This will be my first CPH (and my first cardigan in general) and I'm using Sugarloaf yarn from Valley Yarns. Below you can see my swatch (and I apologize if these photos are too big) - I was concerned that it wouldn't look good because the yarn is single ply and very squishy, but I seem to be getting good stitch definition. Forgive the weirdness of the swatch in the bottom photo, by the way. Once I got (almost) gauge in stst I switched to the cable pattern to see how it looked. I actually experimented with two different cables - the lower part of the swatch is done over 7 sts, and the top part is over 9 sts like the pattern says. I think I'm going to stick with 9 sts, because I like the elongated look.

As I said, I got "almost gauge" - basically I'm half a stitch under the pattern's gauge. Instead of redoing all the math (I have three WIPs languishing right now due to math issues) I'm going to make the next size up, since it runs snug anyway. If anybody sees any obvious flaws in that plan please feel free to let me know!

I'm planning on knitting the body in the round but probably the sleeves will be knit flat and at the same time so I can make sure they're even. I'm very excited to finally cast on!

Lovin' It

Amazingly, I was able to take my knitting with me on vacation and I got a lot done. The back is on it's stitch holder and the two fronts got cast-on Sunday night. I'm already to the point where I'll start the shaping decreases. This project is super fun and I often find my self wishing I was done and able to wear it;)




Sorry for the horrible pictures, but the lighting at the office is bad - or it could just be me;)

yarn suggestions?

I'm seriously gearing up to do this, but wondered if there is an archive of what yarns people have used, pros and cons, suggestions etc. thanks so much
c

Hood Option

The pattern calls for knitting your hood and binding off, and then picking up stitches for the left and right button bands separately. Aesthetically, to me anyway, it made more sense to go ahead and seam the hood before adding the button bands - instead of binding off and seaming it later (I used a three needle bind off to seam the hood).

I then picked up the stitches for the button bands in one continuous stretch.... up one side, over the hood, down other side. This way, I avoid an obvious seam at the finished edge of my hood.

Just another option to throw out there!

Hopefully I'll finish the bands and have this blocking tonight! I can't wait!

-Lynda

ETA- Unbelievable!!! Someone just pointed out that I have a miscrossed cable! Do you know how careful I have been with EVERY cable crossing - double checking them all, and I mess up on 2nd to the last cable!

Tartar sauce!!!!!!!

I have to go cry now :o(

Blocking Question

Ok, so I've finished and because I'm impatient I went ahead and seamed this whole thing. Now I'm concerned that the ripping is too tight. I'm going to block it this weekend but I want to make sure I block it correctly, any suggestions?

I also think the hood looks too small, what is the best way to block that?

Fancy Ribbing & Cables w/Combination Knitting

Am wondering if anyone has used the combination knitting for their CPH on either the ribbing and/or the cables? If so, what did you like or dislike about it?

A little help with circular sleeves?

I am planning on knitting yet another CPH, (this time for me) using Cascade 220 in color #9453 which is called Amethyst Heather. I intend to knit the body in one big piece again and this time would like to try knitting the sleeves in the round... Since I've never knit a set-in sleeve in the round before, I'm not sure how to do it! Would I just knit as usual up to the cap shaping and at that point start knitting back and forth in rows for the remainder of the sleeve? It seems like that's too easy an explanation!! :-)

Advice would be appreciated!!

Stacee

WOOHOOOO!

The CPH is finished! It's too big, but it's so soft, warm and comfy, I don't mind it being loose!



Great pattern - well written and easy to follow.

The details:

Yarn: Sirdar Donegal Tweed; washes and dries like a dream, and softens up a LOT after!

Size: Made the 44 because I’d read that the sweater ran small, but I should have made the 40.

Mods: Did the fronts and back all in one piece, knit the sleeves in the round (I hate seaming!) and made the button band only 1/2 inch deep because I installed a zipper instead of using buttons. Also short-rowed the shoulders and did a three-needle bind off on the shoulders and hood seam.

This was a great knitalong - learned a few new things and met some new bloggers, which are always good things :)

More info over on my blog - come visit!

I can't stop.....I'm twisted... in the cabling sense, anyway;)

CPH #2 is coming along even quicker. I cast on Last Monday. (I think) Fronts and back are done- cast on sleeves last night. For me- matching mirrored pieces (fronts, sleeves) 2 at a time is the way to go!

Using Cascade Sierra-

80 % pima cotton 20 wool

Color- Raspberry

US #8's (5 for ribbing)

Planned mods:

Am knitting pieces 2 at a time. (I'm keeping my 2 "cakes" of Sierra in a zip-lock- pulling from the center- then each time I switch - I turn the bag to keep them from twisting together.)

I will be continuing the cable up the back of the hood. (have to find that post;)

I will be knitting the button band in one piece to eliminate the little seam at the top center of the hood.

Tracey-

Sleeves are... Soothing?

I posted earlier about how I'd done the back cables incorrectly and I'm doing the sleeve cables to match. It's been chilly lately and I've been wearing a store-bought cabled cardigan from 5 years ago and it was just what I needed to pick back up my CPH again. I'm on the sleeves and I've finished fronts and back, so I'm nearing the finish... sort-of.
With my recent addiction to Gray's Anatomy, I've picked up my CPH and been working on it constantly. It's been really soothing during a stressful spring semester of school. That's quite an alliterate sentence!! Hope everyone else is thoroughly enjoying this knit!

January One blog on CPH

I've mentioned Cara's CPH posts on her blog January One. Here is a link:

http://www.januaryone.com/archives/knit/garments/central_park_hoodie/

I've learned a lot from her and thought other might like to read what she went through knitting CPH.

From the Starting Line

I'm a new member to this KAL and I'm glad to be here. I was inspired to make this cardigan because I stumbled upon this blog and saw everyone's beautiful work. This is also my first KAL.

I chose Beaverslide's Traditional Fisherman's weight, in Alpine Fir. It was either this color or this one. That was my hardest decision. I like the way it's turning out in the Alpine Fir. I'm using Knitpicks needles, US 7. My gauge is 4.25 stitches to the inch. I'm making the size medium and the gauge difference will ensure a good fit on my frame. I would have normally made the size large as I like roomier cardigans.

I also made a 2 inch ribbing instead of the 4. I'm short, and I didn't think the recommended ribbing would look as nice on me.

Proof that I am actually participating... Slowly...

I've been lurking on this knitalong for a while, mainly because of how long it took me to find suitable yarn. Or, rather, suitable yarn that I could actually afford. And I would have been able to post a picture much sooner if I hadn't had a tantrum and frogged half of the back. I never think my stitches are neat enough. But then again, does anybody? I think the problem is that I don't get to see much other hand knitting close up, so I end up comparing mine to things made on machines. Anyway... Here is a picture of what I've done so far. It's a much warmer brown than it appears in this photo. I hope it turns out as well as everyone else's has!

Short Rowing Your CPH Shoulders

Here are some specific instructions for people looking to short-row their shoulders for the first time on their CPH. The main benefit for short-rows is that a three needle bind off creates a much neater shoulder seam, especially when trying to line up the cables.

This was my first time, too, and with the help of a great tutorial and a lot of notes, here are some instructions for the M size only. If another knitter would like to contribute the instructions for a larger size, then please feel free to edit this post or e-mail me with stitch counts for other sizes. I apologize that these instructions are incomplete for all sizes, and if these instructions are not clear. Feel free to e-mail me if you have additional questions or corrections.

The basic concept is that you begin short row shoulder shaping on the WS. The other tricky part is right at the end when you have to go back and pick up the wraps, because you are in the middle of a row. You will have to break the yarn and then reattach.

Step-by-Step:
When you are ready to shape the shoulder, begin short-row shoulders on the WS.

(WS) Work in pattern until 7 stitches remain. Wrap next stitch and turn.
(RS) Work in pattern until 7 stitches remain. Wrap next stitch and turn.
(WS) Work in pattern until 14 stitches remain. Wrap next stitch and turn.
(RS) Work in pattern until 14 stitches remain. Wrap next stitch and turn.
(WS) Work in pattern until 21 stitches remain. Wrap next stitch and turn.
(RS) Work in pattern until 21 stitches remain. Wrap next stitch and turn.

You are now in the middle of a row, and you have done your short rows. You now have to go back and pick up the wraps, but you are in the middle of the row.

(WS) Work 40 stitches (32 center stitches for hood, 18 stitches for left shoulder seam) in pattern, picking up wraps as you encounter them, leaving aside the stitches on the right needle (these stitches make up the right shoulder seam) for the moment.

Break Yarn.

Put 18 stitches for shoulder seam on spare DPN or stitch holder, put center 32 stitches on holder.

Reattach yarn to remaining 18 stitches, and work them in pattner on the WS, picking up wraps and you encounter them. Then place stitches on spare DPN or holder, and set piece aside for three-needle bind off.

knitting the body in one piece

To knit the body in one piece you eliminate one stitch on the seam edge of the fronts, and eliminate one stitch on both edges of the back. These eliminated stitches would form the seam if you were to knit the two fronts and the back as three separate pieces.

For size 40 the pattern calls for 44 stitches cast on for each of the two front pieces, and 94 stitches for the back. To knit the body in one piece I cast on 43 (44-1) + 92 (94-2) + 43 (44-1) for a total of 178 stitches.


After doing the ribbing I placed markers after the 43rd stitch and the 135th (43 + 92) stitch, where there would have been a seam.

I got confused at first about the ribbing where there would have been a seam until I realized that on the right side your ribbing begins and ends with 2 purl stitches. Then it made sense.

Then you follow the pattern as written keeping in mind that you've eliminated those 4 stitches. Once you get started on the main cable pattern you won't be counting stitches but using markers and your eyes to know what to do. I've been marking off each row on a piece of paper so I know when to cross the cables (row 3).

So when you've knit the body to the length you want, you bind off for the armholes. Here you have to remember that you have eliminated 2 stitches at each underarm, so you would bind off 2 fewer stitches in the initial bind off row at each underarm.

In the case of size 40 the original pattern says to bind off 6 stitches at the beginning of the armhole shaping for each piece. Since I've eliminated 2 stitches each armhole, I will bind off 10 (6-1 + 6-1) stitches at each armhole. Then attach a new ball of yarn each for one front and the back and continue following the pattern as written, finishing the front pieces and the back separately.

I am just about to begin the armhole shaping myself and since this is the first time I've done it this way I'm in new territory. So if my little write up here doesn't make sense or I've gotten something wrong please let me know.

HTH

I'm Done!

I loved knitting this so much I'm sad to be finished, the way you're sad when a good book ends. What's the sequel? I don't want to read the same book over ... but I don't want to leave the characters behind!

More pictures and details on my blog. I used Cascade 220, Silver Spruce Heather. (And that's my dog Lucy supervising the photo shoot on a snowy spring day in upstate NY.)

Thanks everyone for your help!

armhole shaping, swatches, etc.

'

I've been dithering about how to do the first bind offs for the armhole shaping. I'm knitting the body in one piece. I've been told to do the bind offs for each arm hole all on one row. That will make some of the bind off stitches lie away from the body rather than towards the body. For some reason that bothers me.

So I looked around online for ideas of how other people handled this and reread Cara's CPH entries on her blog January One. She used a Beaverslide yarn for her CPH, too, but a different yarn than the McTaggart Tweed Fisherman I am using. I remembered her swatch went from 6 rows per inch to 7 rows per inch after washing so she recalculated the dimensions to accomodate this change.

I decided to examing my row gauge and sure enough my washed swatch was a good 7 rows per inch and my CPH is exactly 6 rows per inch. After some time with my measuring tape and calculator I am going to knit an extra 2 inches before binding off for the arm holes.

Meanwhile I still need to figure out if it matters if the bound off stitches lie away from the body.

Any advice would be welcome.

Oops, I did it again!

Couldn't resist- Cast on for CPH #2--- In Raspberry colored Cascade Sierra. (80% cotton 20% wool)

Using US #8 Holz and Stein circs....for the body and US5 for ribbing (cause the cotton will stretch out a bit) I'm about to cast off for the shoulder shaping on the back....knitting htis one a bit more loosely for spring summer wear....;)

More here: Extreme Adventures In Motherhood and Knitting

Progress Report!

Hey--what's this new cat toy on the floor? Move along, boys! This is the back, two partial fronts, and about an inch of ribbing for both sleeves on my CPH.
So far this knit is cruising right along. Yarn is from Webs, Colorado Yarns Durango in a nice burgundy color. On my monitor, this is close to the true color.
More TV watching in store tonight, I think, so there may be even more progress to come. My goal is to have it finished by May 1--we'll see how do-able that is!

prep for short row shoulders

Hi everyone. I've just joined the KAL and started my hoodie. It does go fast! Last night I did most of the left front, until the armhole decrease. I'm using Cascade 220 Heather and size 7 Addi Turbos to make the 40-inch size.



My question is about doing the short row shoulders. I've done short rows once before, but am a bit confused about how to change the pattern to do them here. Do I do turn my work on a WS row instead of binding off on a RS row? For example, the left front instructions for the shoulder are to BO 6 sts at beg of next 3 RS rows. I assume that instead, I'll turn my work 6 sts before the end of the next 3 WS rows. Right? And then keep all stitches on a holder until I can do a three-needle BO with the back?

Also, should I wrap the stitch as I turn my work?

Thanks so much for all your advice!

One Skein Along.

One thing I love about knitting is that if you don’t like what you’ve done so far, you rip it out and start over.

I’m super, head-over heels in love with this hoodie...and when I noticed that the cables where coming out very elongated. I decided to eliminate 2 rows from the pattern repeat. My gauge swatch was extended by two rows and I believe that this actually works out for a more tight looking cable. What do you think?



Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca
Needles: size 7 and 9 US

Where I was..

This is where I was Friday night.


 
This is about one inch down from the shoulder shaping. I finished the 
back Friday night, measured it Saturday... and ripped. Tooo long. 
There's always something off about my measuring no matter what
I do! So now I'm back at the armholes. I guess all that previous
work was practice, right? :)